FAQ

	AIRPLANE FAQ
	What are a few tips for flying a MEGA Motor safely? 1. Stay away from high winds unless you have enough horsepower. 2. Double check everything before you begin flying. 3. Don't fly too high or too far away. 4. Don't let the motor overheat. On new models, fly for a few minutes, check the motor temperature and then fly again. You should be able to hold your finger on the motor (140 Deg F)
	How do you bench test an electric brushless motor? Many RC flyers start out with glow motors. New glow motors required that you run one or two tanks of fuel through it with a rich setting (lots of oil and smoke) to break it in and get it ready for flight. Electric brushless motors are different because they do not require a break in period or any maintenance with normal use. MEGA Motors depend on air flow for cooling which is achieved by the movement of your airplane, not the propeller. The cylinder head is in the prop wash and cooled by the prop in a glow motor. If you decide to run your motor on the bench, make your test as short as possible to eliminated overheating the motor.
	How do you wire an electric speed control (ESC) to a brushless motor? Brushless motors have three wires all of which are "HOT" wires (none of them are ground). Motor rotation direction is the only variable that wiring a motor can change. If your motor turns the wrong way, reverse any two of the wires and it will run the opposite direction. For a more detailed description you can visit our ESC wiring page. Newer programmable ESC's allow switching rotation in the ESC without changing wiring.
	How do you know which MEGA Motor to use with a certain plane? First and foremost, we suggest purchasing a motor calculation program. There are a number of them on the market and they are relatively cheap (we sell & use ElectriCalc). There are so many varieties of airplanes that it is difficult for us to post all them and the suggested motor on our website. Owning your own program allows you to test different set-ups to determine the most efficient motor, esc, etc. for your plane. Search this site for the plane your are interested in, such as "Cub", or use a type of plane such as "Trainer" for a list of suggested setups. Also see "The Basic Rules of Electric Flight."
	Where do I place the Electronic Speed Control? Place the ESC where it will get cooling air flow and as far from the receiver as possible. Electric noise and magnetic fields are created by the ESC which can overload the receiver and cause loss of control. Magnetic field strength varies inversely with distance squared. Double the distance and you will have 1/4 the field strength. Brushed motors also create lots of electric noise and may need filters. Brushless motors are quieter electrically.
	What Is a Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC)? Gas and glow planes have a battery on board to power the receiver and servos. The "Flight Battery" has to be charged after a few flights to make sure power is available. That is why your transmitter charger may have another lead that is used to charge the flight battery. In electric flight a "Battery Eliminator Circuit" has been installed in most ESC's to power the receiver and servos from the flight battery. 5 Volts is usually used on the red wire of the JR connector from the ESC to the receiver. If your flight batteries are over 10 volts you need to learn more about the BEC you are using. Most do not work above 10 volts.
	How do you hook up multiple motors? Multi-motor operations are easier with electric flight than gas or glow flight. With brushed motors one ESC can be used to run all the motors if it has the capacity. With brushless motors, each motor must have a separate ESC. The ESC listens to feedback from the motor to determine rotation direction and speed. If more than one motor is hooked up there will be feedback from each and they may not be doing or saying the same thing.
	How do you check the balance point? To check the model's balance point, install the receiver (RX), servos and the battery pack and attach the wing to the fuselage. Support the wing with your fingertips—near the fuselage sides—and test the model's balance; move the receiver and battery until it balances level or slightly nose down. This is the balance point, and it should match that specified on the instructions. If it doesn't, try moving the battery again; if that doesn't work, add a little weight to the nose or the tail until the model balances where it should. This is vital. A nose-heavy model will probably fly satisfactorily, but a tail-heavy one might not be controllable.
	What are the primary differences between a kit, RTF and ARF? RTF: A RTF (Ready to Fly) model is pre-finished, motor and rc gear fully installed. You may need to buy batteries. ARF: An ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) model will be mostly finished but will need some final assembly, maybe just a couple of evenings to complete. Kit: A kit model needs building from plans, you'll need to purchase quite a few extras to complete.